A slow, unhurried stroll in the early hours of the morning
In the first part, I share the impressions Beyoğlu’s quiet early-morning streets left on me. At the end, in the “Plan Your Walk” section, you’ll find a map, the route and a few practical tips I’ve prepared for you. Enjoy the read, and safe travels!
Good morning,
The sun has only just risen. The streets are still trying to wake from their sleep, as if they haven’t yet shaken the dark from their shoulders, like a baker dozing in front of his oven. The street lamps are still lit, and the smell of simit and fresh bread drifts out of the bakeries and settles over everything.
I buy a simit first, from the historic Boğazkesen Bakery, and start up Boğazkesen Slope. The Italian buildings gleaming on my left catch my eye at once. Whenever I pass them I feel as though I’m wandering the streets of Rome, standing beside the same buildings I once stumbled upon and studied there.
I turn back and continue along Çukurcuma Street. The pigeons and cats are awake, though a few of the cats are still asleep. With its graffiti, antique shops, sculptors and art studios, Beyoğlu sits at the meeting point of art, greenery and sea. You find yourself pausing as you walk, looking up at the buildings and sensing the traces of lives you will never know. Climbing and descending the hills, you can suddenly come upon a view of the Bosphorus.
Life slowly begins to stir in the early hours. In the streets of Cihangir I pass people out walking their dogs, movers at work, and workmen starting their repairs. A woman smoking on her balcony watches me go by, and we exchange a greeting.
As I climb toward Sıraselviler, the bells begin to ring. It is nine o’clock.
I sit down in a café in Cihangir, with a view of both the sea and the avenue, and say good morning to the day, and to Beyoğlu with it.
Plan Your Walk
start
Meşhur Tarihi Boğazkesen Simit Fırını (The Famous Historic Boğazkesen Simit Bakery), Boğazkesen Street. Stop here first for a fresh simit, the sesame-crusted bread ring you’ll see all over Istanbul.
getting there
Take the T1 tram to the Tophane stop and begin where Boğazkesen Street meets the waterfront.
how long it takes
About an hour and a half at a relaxed pace. I set off at 7:30 and finished around 9:00.
when to go
If you’d like to wander through Beyoğlu as quietly as I did, choose the first hours of the morning. The streets are calm, the bakeries are fresh, and the city is only just waking up.
what to wear
The streets of Beyoğlu climb and fall constantly, so I’d recommend comfortable sneakers and clothes you can move in.
breakfast stop
Around Cihangir Street, Kumrulu Yokuşu or Başkurt Sokak, you’ll find stepped streets with Bosphorus views. Sit at the top of one with your simit and a thermos of tea from home, and enjoy a small breakfast. If there’s a free spot, I’d also recommend Cihangir Sosyal Tesisleri, right on the route. Sit down with a view of the Historic Peninsula, Topkapı Palace and the old city skyline, and catch your breath.
after breakfast
Once you’ve rested, take the quiet streets and watch the day begin to stir. Look at the murals and graffiti, the little shops, the antique dealers and the shopkeepers opening up, and pet a few cats along the way. Then have your first coffee of the day at one of Cihangir’s coffee shops.
map
Enjoy your walk!
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